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Many of you asked how I redid my Industrial Dresser,
so here are some of the answers.
$45 worth of shop casters were bought from Princess Auto and installed.
Found at Home Depot, $25 of industrial chest handles were bought and installed.
The top surface, the sides of the body, and the drawer faces were all stripped to bare wood.
All the wood then had 3 coats of wax applied, polished between each of course.
Now thats hard work!
The drawers on this dresser werent sticking but they did ride like they were traveling
down a dust back woods gravel road.
It was quite obvious why once you saw that they had been constructed with plywood strips
with the grain running sideways as well as large nail heads sticking out.
So off they came, all 10 of them.
They would have to be replaced with something of the same thickness.
Out of my stash of molding I found the perfect solution.
I measured, cut, glued, and used a couple of finishing nails to replace all 10 of the
drawer glides.
These drawers now run like they are on a newly constructed highway.
I used embossed heavy weight paper on the face and edges of the cabinet body.
It was adhered with wall paper paste. The edges of the top surface and the drawer stringers
were painted with silver metallic paint.
Im really happy with how this turned out. It would look spectacular in a loft setting.
It definitely has a modern industrial feel, with a touch of fancy added from the embossed texture.
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Thank you for your emails and the complements.
Im so very glad I have inspired you as so many
inspire me on a daily bases.My signature *white* is a custom color I have
mixed at Cloverdale paint, a Canadian company.
It is a creamy white semi gloss latex.
It can be used in white or off white decorating.
It gives the finished piece a sophisticated look.
The process for my signature white is quite detailed as Im looking for a smooth, clear, long lasting finish. Rather then a distressed
or antiqued look.
I do distress some of these pieces, however it
is usually only lightly distressed and most steps
are still followed.The real trick to the signature finish is the primer.
My primer is tinted a shade lighter then the paint.
I use more coats of primer then paint.
Primer dries quickly.
Primer will show imperfections still needing attention.
It is easy to sand between coats.
Primer smooths the undersurface of the finish,
similar to way we woman use foundation make-up.  |
| Pictured here is a grey primer I usually use for darker colors. |
I prime a minimum of 3 coats with a quality brush.
I use a brand sold at HOME DEPOT called
Performance Select SILVER. What determines
when I have enough coats of primer is if the piece
looks finished. The resulting 2 to 3 coats of paint I
then add smooth the top surface and make it easier
to wash or wipe later and of course
the final color and gloss. Latex paint takes 28 days to fully cure so you must
be careful with your top surfaces once completed
with adding accessories such as lamps and decor.
One helpful trick is to add an
additional clear coat. With painted white surfaces
it can be a pain to get a brushed clear coat on with
out little dust (black specks) getting onto the
surface either from the air, the brush being used or
just from you moving over the piece as you do it,
but it can be done being aware of these issues.
Another alternative is to stain the top surface with
a rich dark walnut which ends up looking stunning
against the creamy white and then a clear coat
is much easier to still add.
Hope this helps with your current projects!
Plz leave your questions below and Ill be
happy to respond.
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